How to Turn a Wooden Round Table Into Half Round Then Out Again

We've done lots of cloth baskets, because anybody loves to organize. Only a standard handbasket needs a apartment surface on which to sit down, and countertop existent estate tin can often be at a premium. What to exercise, what to practise? Y'all can open additional infinite by lifting your storage solution upwardly and off the counter with our cute hanging, one-half-round baskets. With a flat back and curved front, the basket lays flush against the wall, keeping information technology handy without encroaching into your infinite. The rope loop that ties onto the hanging dowel can be short or long to best fit your needs: hang it high and out of the mode or continue it depression and correct at hand.

Our basket samples were originally done in a cute novelty fabric drove,: Camp-A-Long Critters from Studio E Fabrics. It gives them a child-friendly wait, but… come on, wouldn't you love to stash your bath toiletries in a hedgehogs basket?! The fabric choices are fun to mix and match. The outside is a standard quilting weight cotton; the lining, accent ring, and dowel panel are a mid-weight canvas.

Y'all'll run across below how we combined multiple interfacings to create the curved structure. Cream allows the master curve to hold its shape, a lightweight interfacing keeps the quilting weight cotton super polish, and a mid-weight interfacing in combination with a layer of plastic canvas work together to stabilize the base.

With all this extra stabilization, the handbasket will stand up on its ain. This means you could opt to go out off the hanging element entirely and use it every bit a standard countertop handbasket.

There's a free downloadable pattern for the curved base. Using this in combination with our classic inset base technique is what creates the unique one-half-circular shape.

A hanging panel with a rod pocket allows easy insertion of the dowel. We used a ¾" dowel cut to 8" and then it is the same width equally the basket. You tin can so simply tie your hanging rope to each end at whatsoever length works best. Call back that the longer that hanging loop, the more than the handbasket will naturally want to tip forward when filled.

1 of more of these baskets would make a wonderful new babe gift filled with some infant soaps, lotions, and cloths.

Or load one upward with role items, clearing off your workspace and organizing your tools more than efficiently.

If you love these hanging baskets, you might besides like i or more of our other cloth handbasket options, such equally the Tall Fabric Box Baskets, Soft Storage Baskets in Burlap and Cotton wool or Drawstring Bonnet Handbasket. Bank check out our consummate Storage + Organization category for even more ideas.

Our baskets finish at approximately half-dozen″ high x eight″ broad x four" deep at the noon of the front end curve.

Sewing Tools You Need

Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
Walking or Fifty-fifty Feed foot , or engage your machine's material feeding organization; optional but recommended for working with the additional thickness created past the foam – we engaged the AcuFeed™ Flex fabric feeding system on our Janome auto

Material and Other Supplies

Notation: The yardage and supplies listed below are for 1 hanging handbasket.

⅓ yard of 44″+ broad quilting weight cotton wool for the exterior; nosotros originally used Frogs in Aqua and Hedgehogs in White , both from the Camp-A-Long Critters collection by Studio E Fabrics
½ grand of 44"+ broad mid-weight canvas or similar for the upper band, lining, and hanging console; we used a 7oz duck canvas in natural
Notation: Canvas traditionally comes in wider widths – ours was 54"; if this is the case for your choice, you can get away with just ⅓ one thousand.
⅔ yard of twenty"+ wide lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon ShapeFlex , this woven product provides the smoothest finish against the foam and is our recommendation
¼ g of xx″+ wide fusible foam; we used Pellon Flex Foam , i-sided fusible foam
¼ yard or scrap of 20"+ wide mid-weight fusible interfacing – y'all need a minimum 8" x iv" rectangle from which to cut the blueprint; we used Pellon Décor Bond
Minor sheet of plastic canvass; equally above, you demand a minimum eight" x 4" rectangle from which to cutting the blueprint
Ane ¾" wooden dowel; you need an approximate 8" length
i yard of soft rope or similar for hanging; the exact type of hanging string is really up to y'all and how/where yous'll exist hanging the basket. Our samples each used approximately ane chiliad of a thin twisted cord
All purpose thread to match material
See-through ruler
Material pen or pencil
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Scissors
Rotary cutter and mat
Atomic number 26 and ironing board
Straight pins
Seam sealant; optional for the ends of the hanging rope – we used Dritz Fray Check

Getting Started and Blueprint Download

Download and print out our ONE pattern canvas for the one-half round base.
NOTE: You will apply the full pattern to cut the fabric then will need to trim the design along the seam assart line, using this trimmed version to cut the plastic canvas and the mid-weight interfacing (the lightweight Shape Flex is cut at total size). If you want to keep your patterns for later on use, impress 2 copies of the pattern sheet.
Important: This design is ONE 8½" x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT Scale to fit the page. In that location is a guide rule on the page and then you can ostend your last printout is to calibration.
Cut out the design piece along the solid line.
From the fabric for the primary exterior (Frogs and Hedgehogs in our samples), cut the post-obit:
I 21½" wide x 6½" high rectangle for the exterior
Using the full design, cut ONE for the base
From the textile for the upper band, lining, and hanging panel (Natural canvas in our samples), cut the following:
ONE 21½" wide ten half dozen½" loftier rectangle for the exterior
Using the full pattern, cut ONE for the base
ONE 21" wide ten 2½" strip for the upper ring
Ane 5" ten seven" rectangle for the hanging panel
From the lightweight interfacing (Shape Flex in our samples), cutting the following:
ONE 21½" broad x 6½" loftier rectangle for the exterior
Using the full design, cutting Ane for the base
ONE xx" wide ten 2" strip for the upper band
From the fusible foam, cut the following:
ONE xx" wide x 5½" loftier rectangle, then sub cutting 3 ⅞ " from each stop, giving you three split panels.
Trim all iv sides of each console at a slight angle as shown below.

This volition allow the foam to improve fold together along the corners.
Trim the base panel pattern along the dotted stitch line.
Using the trimmed base of operations pattern, cutting 1 from the mid-weight interfacing and One from the plastic sail.
Get out the rope every bit a continuous length as well as the dowel; it will be best to cut both to size at the very finish.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing the interfacing and the foam

Observe the main exterior panel and the outside base of operations panel along with the matching pieces of lightweight interfacing. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of both fabric pieces, aligning it with the raw edges all effectually. Following manufacturer'southward instructions, fuse in place.
Notice the upper ring and its lightweight interfacing ring. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric so it is flush along one long edge with ½" of fabric extending beyond the interfacing at both ends and along the opposite long edge. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.
Flip the fused exterior base panel wrong side upwardly. Find the trimmed mid-weight interfacing console. Place this panel on the the fused wrong side of the outside base of operations, centering it so there is ½" extending beyond this 2d layer ofinterfacing all around. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.
Place the fused main outside panel incorrect side upward and flat on your ironing surface. Carefully position the three foam panels equally shown in the diagram below. Maintaining the proper spacing top, bottom, and between the panels is important in order to allow everything to seam together and sit down smoothen and affluent when finished.
Lightly pin the foam panels in place. Post-obit manufacturer'southward instructions, fuse in place. We prefer to fuse from the right side of the material.

Assemble the exterior with its base

With the cream fully fused in identify, align the 6½" sides of the main exterior panel. Pivot together.
Using a ½" seam assart, stitch this short seam.
After seamed, marking the fold opposite the seam with a pivot. This marks the heart point of what will go the curved front of the basket.
Find the exterior base. Place information technology right side up and apartment on your work surface. Marker the middle points along both the directly and curved edge, then marker ½" in from each corner.
Whorl the exterior tube and so the seam is at the heart back.
Set the tube top side down, lesser side up on your piece of work surface and gear up the base into position. Match upwards the heart pin bespeak forth the directly border of the base with the seam of the tube, then pivot outward in either direction, stopping at the corner pin points that are sitting ½" in. Brand certain your distance from the seam to the corner pin is the same to both the left and the right. These corner pivot points will become the dorsum corners of the hanging basket.
Using a ½" seam allowance, sew together from corner pin indicate to corner pin point, which means you are starting and stopping ½" in from the raw border.
Remove from the machine and clip into, simply not through, the seam at either end.
Friction match up the center pivot betoken of the curved front of the base of operations with the heart marking pivot on the tube. Then fill in around the residue of the bend in either direction, easing the fabric equally needed.
You volition have a lilliputian chip of extra fabric in each corner, like a little "ear." This is okay.
Run up around the forepart bend of the exterior, using a ½" seam allowance, which ways y'all are following along the edge of the trimmed mid-weight interfacing.
Prune the curves .
Printing open the seam allowance then turn the exterior basket correct side out.
Find the plastic canvas piece and push it down into position inside the exterior handbasket.

Create the lining

Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the lining in the top and bobbin.
The lining is created in the same way every bit the exterior, but since it is the heavier canvas substrate, there is no interfacing or cream applied to this layer. The main deviation is that all the seam allowances are ¾" rather than ½". The smaller finished size takes into account the cream applied to the exterior layer.
Merely seam the main panel into a tube; call back, it's a ¾" seam allowance. Don't forget to also mark the reverse fold from the seam as the center point of the lining's curved front.
Mark the base of operations in the aforementioned mode as higher up for center points along the straight edge and the curved front. The corner marker pins should be ¾" in from each raw edge.
Set the base into the open bottom end of the lining tube, stitching beyond the back straight border showtime (starting and stopping at the ¾" marked corner points). Recollect to prune into the seam at each corner.
Match up the center front pin points and ease together the layers across the front.
Stitch around the curve using a ¾" seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance back to ¼ " and press open.
With the lining notwithstanding wrong side out, skid it within the exterior (which should be right side out already). Line up the dorsum seams of both and make sure the lining base is pushed down all the mode against the plastic sail.
Notation: The plastic canvas should stay put between the layers without problem; it did for both our samples. If yous experience any shifting, y'all could adhere it to the exterior base with a flake of fusible seam tape.

Create and secure the hanging console

Notice the v" 10 7¾" canvas panel. Create a ¼ " double turn hem along one 5" end and both 7¾" sides. To exercise this, fold back the raw edges ¼ " and press, and so fold an additional ¼ " and fold once more.
Edgestitch in place close to the inner fold.
Fold down the top hemmed edge just over 1" in order to create the casing for the dowel.
NOTE: This fold allows good spacing for the ¾" dowel we used for our sample. You lot should wrap the hemmed panel around your ain dowel to ostend your specific fold.
Stitch the hem in identify, running this new seam straight over the acme of the existing narrow hem seam line.
Find the basket. Center the hanging panel over the the back seam. The raw border of the hanging console should exist flush with the top raw edge of the basket. The incorrect side of the hanging panel should exist against the right side of the exterior. Pivot in place.
Automobile drip in place across the panel .

Create and secure the meridian emphasis band

Find the 21″ ten two½" strip for the upper band, which should already accept the interfacing fused into place.
Fold back the non-fused 21" border ½", which means yous are folding right along the edge of the interfacing. Press the fold well to set a crease line.
Unfold this edge so the crease line is visible and place the 2½" ends correct sides together. Pin in place.
Run up together, using a ½" seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open and flat.
Lining up the seam of the accent band with the dorsum seam of the basket, place the ring right sides together with the lining … so inside the basket. The top raw edge of the band is flush with the height raw edges of the basket and the folded border of the ring is hanging down into the center of the basket. Pin all effectually the superlative. Make sure the hanging panel is withal hanging straight downwards against the right side of the exterior.
Using a ½" seam assart, stitch all the fashion around the top through all the layers
Grade the seam allowance all around.
Bring the accent band up and around to the exterior of the exterior to grade the top gage. Pin place, making sure the ring has an fifty-fifty reveal all the way around.
Bring the hanging panel upwards into its last position. It will lay across the band at the back. Pin it into its upright position.
Slightly lengthen the sew. The machine should yet exist threaded with thread to best match the ring in the tiptop and bobbin.
Edgestitch all the way around, staying close to the upper fold.
Then edgestitch all the way around over again, this time staying shut to the bottom fold.